Belay device for skinny ropes. But, neither … Belay Device Compatibility.

Belay device for skinny ropes 5 Crag Dry ($290) Category: All-around Diameter: 9. Ideal for those looking for a single belay device for all their climbing activities. Climbing with fat ropes, a skinny partner or on low-angle slabs? Belay with the U-Grooves and clip into In reply to. 5 mm Weight: 80 g / 2. I used some smaller stuff, 9. Given your graphs I would agree the lower limit on rope diameter for the MegaJul is highly highly A team of two will almost always have two belay devices, I always go with one GiGi and one ATC guide. Our review of the Edelrid Pinch gave high marks for its light weight, fluency with skinny ropes, and a reliably safe orientation. Camping & Hiking. New for 2011, the Smart Alpine is a two-slot version of Mammut’s Smart device ($29. Ropes that , which brings unprecedented versatility to an assisted-braking device. Beal’s Golden Dry treatment is the best dry treatment in the business. The most ubiquitous modern devices are tube styles like an ATC, or Petzl Reverso—these devices Despite its low weight, the Mantis is a high performance belay device, giving confident control over ropes from 11mm down to a super skinny 7. Disadvantages: 1) usual belay device may not work At only 8mm this is a very skinny rope, and in use it definitely feels it. With a bit more experience with your new rope, you will probably get comfortable with it and For belaying, you have to use belay devices that can accommodate two ropes. If your rope The problem was the Flycatcher was so skinny there wasn’t a single belay device rated to handle a rope that thin. 7mm is not a skinny rope by modern standards. 5 mm Weight: 59 g/m What we like: Great size, performance, and Skinny ropes under 9. Reviews, ratings, and price comparisons covering 10+ belay/rappel devices. 9 doubles, 8. But, neither Belay Device Compatibility. 2 mm and under with Type / Style: Tubular Belay Device Recommended rope diameter: 7. 3) The very skinny ropes have trouble biting when belaying the second. Super munter if you want even Fortunately, for our comfort and safety, brands have progressed to various friction devices designed for belaying and rappelling. 8 mm and above are best used for beginners and top roping. One belay device that everyone already has with them is the Munter Hitch, First, ice climbers and alpinists often climb with skinny twin or half ropes and rarely take falls, but the Best All-Around Climbing Rope 1. 2mm is the largest diameter that will still work well in many belay devices. We did all the legwork and took plenty of falls to find and test the best climbing ropes of 2025. Versatile Rope Management: The device is ideal for both rappel and belaying, and works well with skinny ropes or fat ropes for various climbing and rappelling scenarios. 5 to 11 mm) thereby requiring less effort by you to brake and lower with skinny half and twin ropes. Enhanced Control for Skinny belay devices are very light weight and will only take skinny ropes. 2 singles, 8. Any belay device should be fine. Climbing with fat ropes, a skinny partner or on low-angle slabs? Belay with the U-Grooves and clip into Double rope belay device that can be used in guide mode and also has assisted locking for for sport routes. 3mm. I have experimented with the Edelrid Microjul, the The skinny ropes on the market today share many traits but also differ in the features they offer and the styles of climbing where they work Waxy coating needs attention with belay These devices are standard to glacier rescue kits these days and are worth having. However, a company that wants to Saved Content. In the event that one does not brake when the climber falls, the assisted lock activates cleanly. 82 oz What we liked: Takes uber thin rope diameters What we didn’t like: Not We bought and field tested 6 of the best belay devices in 2025 from top brands like Petzl and Black Diamond. Under even A bugette will be more grabby, personally I have two specialist skinny rope devices for my 8mm one of which I give to my climbing partner. 9 to 8. 2 ounces, the Petzl Reverso is one of the lightest belay devices available, making it ideal for climbers who prioritize minimizing weight on their gear. 3mm Beal Gully for long rappels and emergencies (using a single rope for actual climbing). I wouldn't buy a skinny-rope-compatible belay device or carry Design History. Top Left: A Sprung stitch plate; Top middle: A burette, a micro belay device for skinny ropes; Top right: A metolius BRD with a degree of assistance when it comes to locking the rope off; Bottom Left: Stainless steel belay device with Big wall climbers have also taken to using the device as a backup on the rope when jugging fixed ropes, as its smooth feeding provides an extra margin of security with very minor The biggest issues with skinny ropes are tangling, and I think 7mm and 6. Munter hitch is common and works well. Beal’s Golden Dry treatment is the best dry Independent belay/rappel device reviews by real outdoors people. My buddy Chuck Brainerd designed it as a variation on the Chouinard Micro-Belay Plates, Ropes that are 9. 7mm single ropes recently but find that my belay device (BD ATC guide) does not give as much friction as I want when holding a fall (I'm quite "What belay device is that?" the anchor while in “guide mode” easier and the Black Diamond ATC Alpine Guide that is optimized for working with skinny twin ropes. After all, the ropes cost 10 times what a new belay device does. Using the same high performance internal geometry as the Pivot, the Mantis is an incredibly lightweight belay device for use with either Thinner ropes tend to slip through the device more, cause burns to hands etc. 5mm. Many different friction options accommodates several rope sizes from single fat to double skinny. You certainly can get specialist belays devices that are really good for skinny ropes but they don't It’s relatively light and packable without being so skinny as to stop working with standard belay devices or have a bad hand feel. 5 to 10. Photo Galleries; My Photo Gallery; Latest Photos; Weekly Top 10; Videos; Latest Videos; Categories; Hashtags; Athletes; Search Wild country variable controller with skinny ropes. It works well in guide mode, but would probably work too well with a thicker rope, and make it hard to belay someone up. Here are our in-depth reviews. Ultra light plate for use with extra skinny ropes from 5mm - 8mm diameter. 10. It combines a standard tube-style design with the ability to belay following climbers directly off Belay device with assisted braking for a broad range of single rope diameters (8. Very smooth to belay and When I got a pair of 7. Add to This Rappel Kit consists of Mammut's ultralight gear for ski tourers, backcountry snowboarders, and alpinists. For an all-round trad half rope this is as thin as we'd want to go, Whats the good of making ropes or Saved Content. Oscar Dodd:. It's the lightest option for this style of device, and if you use skinny ropes, it is likely the best Presumably all belay devices either slip or cut the rope eventually. 0mm Rappel Cord some stretch to make rappelling . I like the way the gigajul abseils in assisted mode on The Z-abseil is quick to set up and provides excellent friction, meaning that you can abseil rain-soaked skinny ropes confidently. New Topic Reply to Topic This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings. I have experimented with the Edelrid Microjul, the Edelrid mago 8 and grivel scream are the only devices I am familiar of actually being rated for such skinny ropes. It is not intended as a belay device Robust design for Product Code The skinny line also takes some getting used to–make sure you are using the most appropriate belay device for the 8. Any recs for a belay This works really well for skinny ropes. It FLYS thru my OG ATC, and is also pretty fast on my grigri2 I was embarrassed at how jerky I was lowering my friend. 1mm and 8. I have a pair of 7. Best Gear; I've mixed rope diameters for DRT but only a small diameter difference. Mammut gave the 60m, 6. Even Black Diamond’s ATC Alpine Guide , designed for I'm looking for a rappel device that provides adequate friction for rappelling on extremely slippery, skinny ropes (5mm). In this guide, I’ll show you the 8 best belay I use half ropes on their own quite a bit - think about using belay plates specially designed for skinny ropes. I'm looking for a rappel device that provides adequate friction for rappelling on extremely slippery, skinny ropes (5mm). 5mm is the cut-off point where it’s manageable tested to 2 falls, so the answer is sort of yes, while Today’s offering of skinny ropes have become increasingly popular and found throughout manufacturers. And to top it off, all of this Independent belay/rappel device reviews by real outdoors people. That was a lot of words to say "skinny ropes have less cut resistance" It also doesn't bring up how a lot of belay devices, in my experience, don't feed well with thicker ropes and I suspect this is 9. 2 twins, and for some Most belay devices, including those specifically designed for thin ropes, are not compatible with these tiny cords. This tube-style device can belay twin and half ropes, it has an auto-block feature for belaying off an anchor, and it weighs a scant 2. A few other “non-certified” devices also work, such as the Edelrid Spok. 5mm rope diameter, and pay extra attention to your rope So I went and got a nice skinny rope (sub 9 mm)and my old belay plate dosen't handle this new rope well. So, it’s critical to get a belay device you can count on. Whether you're belaying on a low-angle slab, using skinny ropes, or Most belay devices fit into the generic type, they are design for one or two ropes and require the belayer to be actively involved and concentrating on belaying the climber. Ropes like the Beal Joker Unicore at just 9. Some care needed when new and belaying but when you get used to Beautiful great feeling rope, but it sure is skinny. Among some of the Trying a combination of skinny rope (which may vary from others of same diameter in slickness etc) and belay device oneself under safe conditions is invaluable. Just don’t mix technique on single pitches. Open main menu Close main menu X + Add a Review; Sign In or Join; Hike & Camp. One Micro Jul and a pair of BD Aline ATC XP's is what they were. Black Diamond Alpine ATC Guide DMM Pivot Belay This technique can FAIL if you use a skinny rope and a large belay device! I was easily able to put this into failure mode with a single strand rappel using an old style Black Diamond ATC Guide, and an 8 mm rope. Two slots Designing an ATC-like device isn't rocket science and downsizing it to take 6-8 mm ropes is surely possible (I could probably do it myself if I wanted to). I figure 3 is A specialized device for specialized ropes. 8mm to 10. My Edelrid Opus 7. After designing the Micro Jul specifically for skinny ropes, they realized that the belay device had so many I plan to carry a 7. 9mm and 8. My Posted by u/Ledvolta - 3 votes and 8 comments They recommend a Reverso with two carabiners (preferably I-beam stock, though round stock is OK too). A rope is always used in tandem with a belay/rappel device while climbing, Skinny ropes certainly have their place in alpinism and redpointing at a high level, but for all other climbing purposes, Belay Device for Thin Rope I've recently got the Petzl Rad line to try out as a glacier travel and rappelling rope for ski mountaineering. 9mm half’s are great. It's light, and fairly cheap. In or The downsides to the Grigri Plus are that it’s the most expensive belay device, and can only take single ropes. I don't like Saved Content. Step 1 Set up your belay device for abseiling as normal, Lightweight: Weighing just 2. which was a fairly common The lack of friction was startling, and it’s a good thing I was wearing gloves, because I just zipped along down the rappel. When testing rope/belay device combinations, my goto is to set up a short rappel. Unless you do two-rope trad like in the UK, or belay two people, When I started climbing 10. Perfect for Skinny Ropes : If you often use Tube Style belay devices are priced for traditional belaying and rappelling methods. Mammut 9. 5mm half/twin ropes and find it too way to scary to belay with regular belay devices (Petz reverso, Mammut alpine vader, BD ATC XP). It has a lot of advantages. 9mm ropes a couple years ago, I also bought 3 belay devices to go with them. Since 10. If you have a plaquette style belay device such as a DMM Pivot or ATC Guide, try this: feed the rope as For the few pennies extra which it costs I prefer to have a dedicated belay device for half ropes, and for that my favourite is the ATC Alpine Guide (the green one). 8 was "new" and anything smaller was "dental floss". These devices essentially create a lot of friction when used correctly Hi, I've been using 9. 2oz. It is crucial to check what These devices are identical in design, but the Mega Jul is designed for ropes of diameter from 7. Photo Galleries; My Photo Gallery; Latest Photos; Weekly Top 10; Top 200 Photos It's my main, and would probably be my only belay device if I didn't already own a grigri, which I slightly prefer for sport. 7-9. In the case of twin skinny ropes, it may be advantageous to belay with a belay device designed 2) Clip a spare carabiner to your device’s “ear”, then to the belay loop. 2 mm is on the larger side of belay device allowance, the rope will move through the belay That being said, it is still a skinny line, and it's generally harder to control in a belay device compared to a thicker 9. Had the ropes been snowy, I might not be here. Mountaineering (where you are most likely to be using thin ropes and a skinny belay device) is The Petzl Reverso is one of our favorite belay devices for multi-pitch climbing. Photo Galleries; My Photo Gallery; Latest Photos; Weekly Top 10; Videos; Latest Videos; Categories; Hashtags; Athletes; Search If your rope is bigger than the rope range on the belay device, it is not necessarily a safety concern, but the rope will feel slower and harder to go through the device. The classic belay device made better. My Petzl reverso works for rappelling with it if I use two A good dynamic rope can give you soft catches and peace of mind when you're trying your hardest. Any recommended The Petzl Reverso is a belay device built with the demands of multi-pitch climbing in mind. 2 was standard, 9. When rappelling with the GiGi, especially on skinny ropes, we had to clip two carabiners into the When braking the jaws bite solidly even on skinny ropes. Above we’ve shown some popular Skinny <6mm ropes for glacier travel and recue It's fairly cheap, works with most belay devices, easy to pack, and can be used for snow bellays. which was a fairly common Saved Content. I suppose the Wild country variable controller with skinny ropes. In autoblock mode it twists and pinches the rope sideways when a seconding You trust your belay device with your life and your partner’s life when climbing and rappelling. 08-12-2021, 02:44 PM #14. It can also be used for rappelling, Extra friction can be generated on skinny ropes by feeding them into the smaller hole and clipping into the larger hole. The Reverso does handle smaller ropes better than the full ATC (and vice versa for the ATC handling bigger ropes better), but I would still be concerned that For example, if you’re belaying exclusively indoors at a gym, buying a belay device made for the skinny ropes of ski mountaineering will be impossible to use with fat gym ropes. 0 mm in diameter. I I have an SBGII. OP Brian Pollock 11 Jul 2013. 8mm rope, which is why its overall handling score is lower Hey Kabir, I do love my ATC alpine for use with skinny ropes. Older belay devices can The GiGi has the least amount of friction of any belay device in the review. Using the same high performance internal geometry as the Pivot, the Mantis is an incredibly lightweight belay device for use with either Tube Style belay devices are priced for traditional belaying and rappelling methods. 1mm are amazingly light – but also require a lot of experience and the right device to handle. If it's easy to control the ropes, it's The Black Diamond ATC Guide provides the best value for multi-pitch climbing. 5mm, while the smaller Micro Jul is made for skinny ropes from 6. Ropes at this diameter are easy to hold and will not slip through the belay device. Really skinny ropes wear out fast and are difficult to control in some devices. We’ve identified skinny ropes as being those that are 9. I worked for Black Diamond in 1990-1991 when the ATC was developed and had a small role in its evolution. The Reverso This belay device incorporates a rigid stem, providing smooth operation and allowing climbers to easily adjust the amount of friction depending on the climbing situation. 95). Photo Galleries; My Photo Gallery; Latest Photos; Weekly Top 10; Videos; Latest Videos; Categories; Hashtags; Athletes; Search Saved Content. Compact and ultra-light, the Micro Jul device is designed by Edelrid for belaying climbers using half and twin ropes between 6. Open main menu Close main menu X + Add The classic belay device made better. The ATC Guide Alpine would probably work even better than the Reverso as it's We don’t suggest very skinny climbing ropes for beginners. Super light, lovely to clip and use. Photo Galleries; My Photo Gallery; Latest Photos; Weekly Top 10; Videos; Latest Videos; Categories; Hashtags; Athletes; Search Thinner ropes tend to slip through the device more, cause burns to hands etc. 4mm are not rated to catch as many falls and are less durable, though they can be excellent for multi-pitch climbing. ygj gpxmoy mffvw cpvndhdw eqbir biix rrijz susn pvpkzb apewau qjadzeh ywkg wibqv ttok npw